So I'm back again in Bali after 9 months. Thanks to Air Asia new route, BKK-Bali, for a dirt cheap price. It rained last night, so there was urban runoff in the the water. But I could careless, I was back in the surf. I'm here with my dear friend, Nong. We love each other, but we don't always agree on every thing. For instance, she said Kuta looks just like Pattaya, but I strongly disagree. Pattaya ain't got any surf and is full of--excuse my French--dirty, old, mostly big-bellied European men walking around with Thai girls. Kuta's crowd is young and vibrant. An atmosphere similar to Huntington or Newport Beach in terms of surf culture. That's what I'm after anyway. I can understand how some people may find Bali mundane. But not for me. I admit, surfing is an addiction. Anyhow this time around, my body is much stronger than it was last year, as a result of prior swim training. My body's still sore from yesterday, mind you, but my form in the water was way better. I didn't bang my knees. My arms were strong enough to do several pop-ups.
Another thing I like about surfing is how my mind works in the water. Nothing else matters but the waves and everything that goes into the process of catching and riding waves. I was focused and clear-minded. Lately I've been distracted with some thoughts that I can't seem to shake off. Surfing helps me let go of some junk in my head and to realize that when I'm focused on something sublime like surfing, I'm much happier and more productive. And the sensation of riding a wave, always, makes me feel liberated.
I think I'm going to apply this principle more to other aspects of my life.